Farm Rio - Towards the East
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SUMMARY
Farm is one of the most recognized and beloved fashion brands in Brazil. In addition to captivating the public with its prints inspired by Brazilian culture, the brand has also expanded to the international market. Its first international store opened in New York in 2019, and since then Farm has continued its global expansion process with the opening of stores in the United Kingdom, France and Italy, taking pieces that capture the Brazilian essence. Now, Farm intends to enter the Asian market, specifically in China, and it is up to Juliana, the company's expansion manager, to develop the best marketing strategy to introduce the brand to the new audience. This case invites readers to understand the challenges and opportunities of a company in the process of internationalization, in addition to encouraging the analysis of international marketing strategies and how they can be adapted to meet the needs and preferences of consumers in different markets.
De onde viemos e para onde vamos
In August 1997, with a small Stand at Babilônia Feira Hype - a cultural and tourist fair in Rio de Janeiro - the trajectory of FARM Rio began. The co-founders of the brand, Kátia Barros and Marcello Bastos, launched a collection with 6 different models of Bodies and, six months after their debut, they became the best-selling brand at the event. In 1999, the brand began its expansion in Rio de Janeiro, opening its first store, in Copacabana, and, in 2001, two others, in the Ipanema Forum and Shopping Downtown. With the sales success, the brand did not take long to expand its operations and spread throughout the Brazilian territory, having opened - between 2004 and 2007 - stores in large capitals such as Belo Horizonte, Brasília, São Paulo and Salvador. In 2010, with the merger of Farm and Animale, the brand became part of the SOMA Group, the largest fashion group in Brazil. More than 25 years after the creation of the brand, FARM has more than 100 establishments in the country, and record gross revenue of R$1.3 billion in 2023, as disclosed by the group's financial report (Grupo Soma, 2023).
After its consolidation and structuring in the Brazilian market, in 2016, the company decided to invest in the possibility of disseminating its operation internationally. Quickly, FARM realized that, in order to have a relevant presence in the foreign market, it would be necessary to reconfigure its image to express that the brand represents more than the sun, beach and tropical prints.
In order to gain space in this new market, empresa apostou na participação na maior feira de varejo de moda do mundo, a Coterie, em Nova York, em 2016. A marca obteve um número bom de vendas, apesar de não significativo. Após esse evento, novas oportunidades surgiram e o catálogo da FARM entrou na carteira de lojas de departamentos americanas como a Bloomingdale's e Anthropologie. Em 2019, a empresa finalmente abriu suas primeiras lojas nos Estados Unidos, nos estados de Nova York e da Califórnia, com faturamento de 30 milhões de dólares (Souza, 2024)
In the following years, Farm inaugurated some Pop-ups around the US territory and, in 2021, in Europe, with the temporary store located at Le Bon Marché in Paris. In 2023, in addition to the inauguration of a pop-up in Italy, the company established its first own store on European soil, with the debut of its permanent store in the city of London, England (Torre, 2022; Barone, 2022). With its presence in the North American and European markets consolidating, the company defined new challenges, this time aiming to conquer the Asian public.
Big dreams, big projects
Born in Rio de Janeiro, Juliana has always liked fashion a lot. Since she was a little girl, she admired the colorful windows, with prints that, for her, reflected the Brazilian essence. As a teenager, walking along the Copacabana beachfront, at post 6 on the beach, she saw a store that represented everything she had always loved, FARM. Since then it has become Farmete card-carrying and dreamed of the possibility of working in the company that emitted happiness with her clothes. After graduating in Business Administration, Juliana finally saw her dream come true, when she was called to be part of the company's expansion team.
After five years working for the brand, Juliana was finally allocated to a new project, in which she would act as a manager. The Director of the expansion team revealed that she would be responsible for developing the marketing strategy to introduce FARM to the Asian market, more specifically, in China. How could she adapt FARM's positioning to the world Fashion do mercado chinês? Como poderia escolher o melhor segmento do mercado chinês para focar seus esforços? A FARM repetiria o mesmo sucesso?
Exporting Brazilianness
The phenomenon of globalization, without a doubt, has brought individuals from different parts of the world closer together. However, this was not the case when talking about consumption trends, since the way each country consumes is intrinsically linked to local customs. Culture shapes values, preferences, and habits. Consequently, these factors play an essential role in shaping consumer behavior. Thus, it is extremely important that companies adjust to the complexity of the new audiences they want to reach.
To assume that successful marketing strategies in Brazil will be as successful in any other country could be a mistake. Thus, Juliana decided to understand more about FARM's internationalization. In 2016, the company had already hired a fashion consultancy to understand the feasibility of entering the North American market, and as a result, they were guided to change the company's positioning to sophisticate its products. The manager was not sure if this strategy should be replicated on Asian soil.
Since the beginning of the brand, Farm has proposed to serve the women's fashion market, with the main focus on promoting the style of the carioca girl. In 2012, the company's co-founder stated that its target audience could be defined as "young girls, between 20 and 25 years old, living in the South Zone of Rio de Janeiro, PUC students, who are interested in fashion and go to the beach in Leblon and Ipanema", that is, girls from classes A and B who can give off a certain value with clothing. In 2017, the company reiterated that the carioca woman is the starting point and the end point of the brand, since they represent what Farm believes beauty should be: "a happy and vibrant continuation of our girls, a live translation, in color and all stamped of their souls." It was clear to Juliana that this notion could not be merely replicated, after all, in addition to the Brazilian tropicality not being experienced in Asia, the oriental culture differs from that experienced on Brazilian soil.
Assim, Juliana optou por analisar as estratégias da marca sobre o viés mais tradicional que aprendeu em sua graduação: os 4Ps do Marketing. Também conhecido como Mix de Marketing, é o conjunto de elementos (Produto, Preço, Praça e Promoção) básicos que formam uma estratégia de marketing.
Iniciando sua análise pelo produto a ser vendido, Juliana sabia da influência do clima. Na maior parte do Brasil as quatro estações do ano não são bem delimitadas, havendo apenas dois momentos marcantes: uma estação quente e úmida e outra quente e seca, com temperatura média anual de quase 25º Celsius (Agência Gov, 2023). Desta forma, a utilização de tecidos como a viscose - material altamente respirável - são comuns na produção das roupas da FARM.
Conforme nos afastamos mais do Brasil, o público consumidor tende a ser mais discrepante do que parecido. Usando as lojas da FARM em Londres como exemplo, seria inviável assumir que o clima frio e chuvoso do país viabiliza o uso dos vestidos soltos e leves da marca na maior parte do ano. Além disso, o time criativo da empresa optou por “abaixar o tom” quando foi a hora de idealizar as roupas que seriam vendidas na Inglaterra. Os tons das cores ficaram mais fechados e a modelagem das peças ficou mais conservadora, a fim de se adaptar às clientes londrinas.
Regarding the price of products, according to data from Exame magazine, in 2021, the average price of a Farm dress in Brazil was R$400.00 while, in the United States, this value was U$320.00. Although, at first glance, the prices are similar, the average spending of an American on clothes is $162.08 (Statista, 2022). Therefore, it can be seen that the value practiced in the United States represents almost double the average value paid for clothing in the month by Americans, thus consolidating itself as a more sophisticated product. Similarly, in European stores, prices are generally starting at £200.00 (Farm UK, 2024) in a context in which the average consumption - in the United Kingdom - is £76.53 (WRAP, 2022).
When analyzing the Square element, Farm has more than 100 physical stores spread across the national territory, in addition to having thousands of registered resellers and its "farmrio.com.br" website focused on the e-commerce of its products. In the foreign market, the company has eight physical stores where consumers can buy its products, spread across the United States, France, England and Italy. In addition, the brand's products are present in other stores such as Nordstrom, Anthropologie, Saks Fifth Avenue and on its own website that has three subdivisions to serve different locations: "farmrio.com" for the international public as a whole, "farmrio.uk" for the United Kingdom and "farmrio.eu" for the rest of Europe.
With regard to the production and distribution of its clothes, the company has the Farm factory in Rio De Janeiro and has access to the distribution centers of the Soma Group, which has locations in several regions of the country. In addition, the company has chosen to produce its clothes in other countries, such as Morocco and Portugal, and distributes them from three main centers, located in Mexico, the United States, and the Netherlands (Torre, 2022, Barone, 2022, FARM, 2024).
Finally, with regard to the promotion element, the company recurrently presents partnerships in its product lines, such as the lines built together with Havaianas and Adidas. In addition, on his social networks (both Brazilian and foreign), in addition to selling a Lifestyle of stylish girls who like fashion, Farm exhibits the Backstage da criação de determinados conteúdos, eventos nos quais representantes da empresa participaram, e processo de idealização da abertura de novas lojas.
Even knowing all this, Juliana was not sure what would be the best way to enter and consolidate herself in the Chinese market. Should it use the same strategies that had worked with the brand's international audience? Or is Eastern culture so different from Western that everything should be rethought?
Ni Hao China
Knowing the nuances of the Chinese public well before developing a good internationalization strategy was indispensable. Therefore, Juliana began her research, seeking to capture all the details that could interfere with the success of her project.
Initially, Juliana considered it essential to study the relations between China and Brazil. It is not news that the countries have strategic ties of cooperation, and, without a doubt, some may favor Brazilian companies that seek to establish themselves in the Asian country. During her research, Juliana came across an article that talked about the new agreements of the Sino-Brazilian High-Level Commission for Consultation and Cooperation (Brazil-China Sociocultural Institute, 2024). In June 2024, Vice President Geraldo Alckmin paid a visit to China, in order to strengthen relations between the countries and promote commercial and artistic exchange. Some partnerships signed during the trip that deserve to be highlighted are: the Memorandum of Understanding between ApexBrasil and Shanghai Yangpu District People's Government, with the purpose of creating a Casa Brasil in Shanghai, a space for the incubation of Brazilian companies and the promotion of bilateral trade, and the Memorandum of Understanding between the National Confederation of Industry, Zhejiang University Science Park Development and ZIBS Latin America Center to promote the expansion of activities of Brazilian companies in the Chinese market and support creation.
Moving on to a more technical part, Juliana chose to base her strategy on the perspective of the 4Ps, just as she had done previously.
Starting with the product to be sold, Juliana decided to analyze the climate of the target country, in order to point out whether the modeling of the Brazilian pieces would suit the new audience. China's vast territorial extension results in a great climatic diversity in the country, however, it is possible to say that in general the seasons are very well defined, with some moments of heat in the middle of the year and others of intense cold at the end, with an average temperature below 5º Celsius (China Discovery, n.d.; Weather Sparks, n.d.). When analyzing from this perspective, it is appropriate to say that FARM's garments, characterized by open modeling and made with fluid fabrics, could be used in some regions of China during summer and spring, since these seasons bring mild temperatures to most cities. However, it seems that it is not so simple to ensure the suitability of products only for the climate, as it is also necessary to take into account the clothing preferences of Chinese consumers.
In China, everyday clothing preferences reflect a combination of Western and Asian influences. In big cities, such as Beijing and Shanghai, it is common to see people wearing casual and comfortable clothes, and it is possible to see many garments within the trend Streetwear, which is successful among young Chinese. Baggy pants, T-shirts Oversized, bonés e tênis são as peças-chave que definem esse estilo. Segundo o Relatório da Indústria de Vestuário Taobao de 2023, desde 2018, o streetwear na China tem crescido a uma taxa constante de 60%, superando outras categorias de moda (China2Brazil, 2023). Apesar da popularidade do estilo despojado, existe uma grande parcela de chineses que optam por fazer uma alusão a sua cultura por meio das vestimentas.
The "Guochao" or "China Chic" movement gained popularity in 2018 and continues to rise. This trend consists of celebrating Chinese culture through the incorporation of traditional components, symbols, and designs into products and marketing campaigns. In clothing, this phenomenon can be observed in the combination of modern elements with traditional Chinese clothing (such as Hanfu). According to Antoaneta Becker, a member of the China-Britain Business Council, showing respect and appreciation for China's culture has become practically a requirement for brands that want to succeed in the country (China-Britain Business Focus, 2023)
In an interview with Jing Daily in 2024, Chinese designer Lucia Liu gave the following advice to brands that want to appeal to the country's young audience: "This Chinese generation is more engaged with their culture than ever before. Gen Z really cares about the presence of some Chinese aspect. In fact, this generation no longer cares about brands in general." Basically, consumers in this age group are more interested in consuming items that make references to Chinese culture, or something that is trending in the country, than buying something just for the name of the brand. From this perspective, just as FARM incorporates nuances of Brazilian culture in its prints, Chinese designers also adopt cultural characteristics in their clothing in order to meet the new demand of the young public.
In addition, it is important to note that the Chinese, especially women, show an aversion to the sun due to concerns about maintaining fair skin, since paler skin is culturally valued and historically associated with status and beauty. Therefore, it is common for Chinese women to adopt measures to avoid sun exposure, such as wearing wide hats, umbrellas, intensive sunscreens, and clothes with more coverage on sunny days (Dao Insights, 2022).
Then, Juliana delved into the pricing of the products. According to a survey by Statista (2022), most Chinese spend between 401 and 600 yuan (between R$300 and R$454 approximately) on clothes monthly. In this situation, if FARM chose to maintain the strategy it uses in other countries, the value of a piece of clothing would be around 1200 yuan (R$910), characterizing itself as a high-value piece. This would reinforce the brand image as being a luxury brand abroad. However, it can be a risky strategy to try to compete with the low prices of e-commerce platforms that are on the rise in China.
Regarding the square aspect, it is noteworthy that China is a world reference with regard to the online retail model. For almost ten years, e-commerce in China has been the largest in the world. Data from the International Trade Administration (2023) reveal that the country alone fulfills more than 50% of online orders placed across the globe. This may be related to the fact that the largest online retail chains are headquartered in the country, such as: Shein, Alibaba, Aliexpress, Taobao, among others. In addition, the Chinese prefer to make their purchases online, from household items to clothing, due to the wide variety of products that e-commerces offer. A survey conducted in 2023 by YouGov revealed that 59.3% of Chinese prefer to shop online than buy in traditional stores.
Apesar do grande favoritismo pelo comércio eletrônico, as lojas físicas ainda possuem certo lugar no mercado. Locais como Nanjing Road e Huaihai Road são conhecidos por serem grandes polos de compras, principalmente de roupas, contando com a presença de shoppings, lojas de departamento e lojas de luxo (Civitatis, s.d.).
By analyzing the promotion element, Juliana discovered valuable information about the target country. Like many parts of the world, China also has digital influencers who launch trends on social networks, called Key Opinion Leaders (KOLs). As their name implies, they play a crucial role in shaping consumer trends, promoting products, and shaping public opinion. A survey conducted by Statista (2023) showed that, among the Chinese interviewed, 86% of them made a purchase after receiving a recommendation from an influencer.
The growth of influencers in China can be attributed to several factors, including technological advancement, the emergence of new social media platforms, and the digital transformation of businesses. Platforms such as Weibo, WeChat, Douyin (known as the TikTok of the West), and Xiaohongshu (a platform that resembles Instagram) have become the main channels through which influencers connect with their followers. In addition, it is worth noting that these social networks are great allies for global brands looking to attract the Chinese public. Several well-known brands, such as Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana, post content on these media, achieving great success by creating publications aimed exclusively at the Chinese audience, rather than just replicating their posts from other digital platforms. These brands also seek partnerships with Chinese influencers and celebrities to win over the country's audience.
Após analisar os 4Ps do marketing, havia outro procedimento que também poderia ser aplicado. Juliana sabia que uma das melhores estratégias para alcançar o sucesso é observar e aprender com marcas brasileiras estabelecidas no mercado chinês. A Havaianas é uma marca com tanta “brasilidade” quanto a FARM, e, como já foi citado, as duas fizeram diversas colaborações e permanecem com a parceria dos chinelos FARM-Havaianas, que possuem as estampas reconhecíveis das peças de roupa da FARM.
Havaianas has already had a presence in China since 2012, through e-commerce sales through distributors, but at the end of 2017 the company decided to make direct sales in the country and founded its Asian office with the aim of having more control over the brand image and distribution channels. At first, the brand sought to select well the partners that would help the entry into the country, from influencers to those responsible for logistics. Thus, betting on a branding aimed at the Lifestyle of summer, to comfort and happiness, the brand decided to use the "stereotypes" of Brazil to its advantage, going headlong into more "colorful" marketing. Over time, this strategy proved to be effective, since Havaianas conquered a large audience, reaching second place in "Top of mind” na categoria de chinelos em entre os consumidores chineses em 2022 (StartSe, 2022), reforçando que produtos com uma pegada tropical tem um espaço no mercado asiático.
Assim, com essas informações valiosas em mãos, Juliana sabia que precisaria adaptar sua oferta de produtos e sua estratégia de marketing para atender às especificidades regionais do país alvo.
The decision
Após muita pesquisa e esforço, Juliana consolidou todas as suas pesquisas, criando um relatório para guiar sua decisão. Quais estratégias Juliana pretende sugerir à marca? Quais são os melhores planos para o território Chinês?
DISCUSSION QUESTIONS
- Considerando os 4Ps, quais estratégias a FARM deve adotar para posicionar-se competitivamente no mercado chinês e manter sua essência e identidade? Explique.
- Considerando a diversidade e o tamanho da China, quais segmentos de mercado (e.g. idade, gênero, estilo de vida) a FARM deveria focar? Explique.
- Quais estratégias de marketing digital seriam mais eficazes para promover a FARM na China? Explique.
GALLERY
Estadão, 2024. Brazil.
Fashion Network, 2024
Fashion United, 2024.Credits:Michael Franke. London
Fashion Network, 2024. Paris.
WWD, 2023. Italy
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About The Authors
Annelise Pinheiro de Souza Abreu she is a student at the Department of Administration (ADM/FACE) at the University of Brasília (UnB). He is a volunteer member of the ADM Casoteca. E-mail: annelisep.unb@hotmail.com
Isabela de Alcântara do Nascimento she is a student at the Department of Administration (ADM/FACE) at the University of Brasília (UnB). He is a volunteer member of the ADM Casoteca. E-mail: isabela.alcantara.nas@gmail.com
Eluiza Alberto de Morais Watanabe is a Professor at the Department of Administration and the Graduate Program in Administration (PPGA) at the University of Brasília (UnB). He holds a doctorate (UnB) and a master's degree (UFMS) in Administration. Experiences in studies related to marketing and consumer behavior. Leader of the research group Conscient- Studies in Sustainable Consumption. He is a member of SCORAI Brazil - Sustainable Consumption Research, Action and Initiative in Brazil (http://scorai.org/brazil). Interest in topics related to sustainable consumption, sustainable marketing strategies and experimental designs. Email: eluizawatanabe@unb.br
This case was written from secondary information and based on other references cited. It is not the authors' intention to evaluate or judge the company in question. This text is intended exclusively for academic study and discussion, and its use or reproduction in any other form is prohibited. Copyright infringement will subject the offender to the penalties of Law No. 9,610/1998.